Campiglia Marittima is a lovely town in the southern province of Livorno. Sleepy, steep, and architecturally splendid, Campiglia Marittima is a wonderful medieval town to get lost within. It has this incredible energy. Actually, many of the walled towns in Toscana do. With their steep stone steps and tightly connected buildings, it's like walking amongst the tendrils of history with every turn.
That gorgeous photo highlights what used to be a medieval market square. It's now fronted by a restaurant. Although I love the churches and castle in the area, what really attracts me is the food.
Wandering around the city's narrow lanes, my partner and I came upon an unpretentious osteria.
Il Gufo and La Civetta has, as you can see, a simple charm. A few tables outside. Nothing too fancy. The day's menu was written on paper. Tuscan simplicity at its best. Inside, tables crowd each other, but not overwhelmingly. It feels more cozy than cramped. On the day of our lunch, an extended family occupied one corner, two women and a baby sat in the middle, and we occupied the front table with a few to the lane.
Our meal? So elegant and complex. We had a bowl of zuppa di funghi, or mushroom soup. Because it's fresh mushroom season, these weren't your basic mushrooms. They were probably picked in the hills. There were about four different varieties sliced and left whole floating in a fragrant and thick broth. Accompanying our meal was a basket of bread. We also ordered a half a kilo pitcher of dry white wine. It was--as Spaulding Gray would say--a perfect moment. Simple food, cooked slowly. A few bay leaves. Some pepper and salt. Magic in a bowl, really. The entire osteria was run by two women. One cooked and one served. And no one rushed as meals with friends and those you love are meant to be savored.
And because this moment was so lovely, we found a small pastry shop across the street run by a husband and wife where we bought one of the best crostate I have ever had.
Bought fresh, it really was best the next day. The jam--made with grapes--was sticky and rich. With an espresso, this meal was a bit of heaven.
You can reach Campiglia Marittima by driving south from Livorno on the autostrada and then following the signs to Campiglia Marittima. I would recommend that you take the Strada del Vino or the Road of Wine to Castagneto Carducci and then drive through the mountain town Suvereto. This is Toscana to me. Thick with chestnut trees and packed with amazing views, this drive is delightful. Many enjoy Toscana only in the larger towns, but I believe that the smaller places are just as lovely. If you can, rent a car or a bike and take the time to see and breathe Tuscany.
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